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Interesting spot for a fine hardwood dining table
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Have you lost your marbles? Outside in the middle of winter in Canada
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I'm actually going to be refinishing this table. I've got a bunch of things that's in the shop
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and I'm finishing them now. I'm in the process of finishing them now. So I want to do the dusty work outside here
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I don't always sand wood outside in the middle of a Canadian winter. But it's a nice day
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And I thought that you'd appreciate learning the tips and tricks for finishing a tabletop
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The thing about a tabletop is that the surface is so prominent. So if there's any problem, if there's any bubbles or brush strokes
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or whatever, that's going to be an issue. Another problem, another challenge with tabletops is that
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when you finish them with a film forming finish, which this top is finished with
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eventually it wears out and you can't really repair it. You need to strip back to bare wood and start again
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So I'm going to be sanding. I'm going to be showing you how to do that properly on a tabletop
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And then also we're going to be finishing this with a repairable oil finish
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So instead of going through this rigmarole again, we can just rub it down by hand and put on another coat of oil
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and make it look as good as new again. So nice looking and repairable
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That's the name of the game here. Almost perverse that you're about to take that aggressive belt sander to this
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Yeah, this finish isn't all that bad. I mean, if you look closely, you can see some cracks forming, some age cracks
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I don't know if you can see them in that light. I can see them pretty closely here. Yeah
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Age cracks. We did a little homeschooling with our youngest daughter on this table
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and I think she's done some vandalism here. I think she got bored or angry
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Why are these holes, pairs like this all over the place? Near her when she was homeschooling, I had a stapler that shot in U-shaped staples
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for holding cables down. So I've had a talk with Ellie about that
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Really? She stapled the table? Well, look at how consistent the spacing is, right
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It's exactly the spacing of those staples. You don't have to be Sherlock Holmes
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No, I don't think. I'm going to start with a belt sander with the grain. If this was a tabletop I was making from scratch and there was some mismatch
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from one piece to the other, one higher or lower than the other
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I'd probably start sanding cross grain. It leaves scratches, but it removes wood very quickly
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and then I would finish up with the parallel grain sanding. But I'll just go right to the parallel grain now
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An 80 grit belt, that's a good starting grit. I'm going to sand all of the stuff off on the surface with this
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and then I'm going to do the edges, probably with a random orbit sander
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And then I'm going to go over it again with 120, 120 belt on the top
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and then do some hand sanding and maybe some sanding with a finish sander
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So, here we go. That's going to work fine
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I'll just keep working at that, but notice here, we've got some things going on
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This is bare wood and then this is where a little bit of the old finish remains
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You can see the cracks that have formed in here from age
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as that finish has aged. I don't want to take off any more than necessary
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so I'm going to be watching for that color difference as I go
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So, I've finished sanding with the 80 grit belt and I'm really quite pleased that those little vandalisms
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that someone in our house did are gone. The deepest one was here, and I think it's going to pretty well disappear
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but all that other stuff is fixed. I did that with the 80 grit belt parallel to the grain
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and then I switched to a 120 grit belt to bring the finish up a little finer
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My next step will be to use 180 grit sandpaper in a finishing sander
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This is a random orbit sander and I have been using it along the edge to get rid of the finish
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First with an 80 grit disc, now a 120. One of the things about finishing a tabletop is that
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I never use a random orbit sander on the tabletop because the action of the abrasive is swirly in shape
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and it will leave swirly marks behind. You won't see it so much until the finish goes on
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and then you'll see it and then it'll be too late. Now, I'm just going to refine the edge a little bit more
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with this pretty big random orbit sander. I will remove the scratch marks on the side
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There's not going to be that many and it's not that prominent. The thing about a tabletop is that the finish, the surface is so prominent
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That's why you have to be very particular. So, this is my trusty quarter sheet finishing sander
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I've used the belt sander, 80 and 120. I've gone over the tabletop with 180 in this sander
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and I'm just going to go over it now with 220. Same procedure for the edge
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and that will be it for the machine sanding. Then I'm going to take this into the shop
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I'm going to do some hand sanding parallel to the grain looking very closely at everything
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I'm going to round the edge very slightly with the hand sandpaper so that it's a little more chip resistant
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and then we'll be getting to that oil finish I was telling you about
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The thing to understand about sanding at this stage is and you wouldn't know it just by watching me
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but when I'm going over, it's systematic from one end to the other
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and I'm looking very closely everywhere to make sure there's no finish remaining
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or no scuff marks or scratches or anything like that. That's how you get a nice finish
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It feels super smooth. There's not a cross-grain scratch anywhere on this
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I think it's going to turn out really nice. Now I've got the tabletop in the shop
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and I'm going to be putting on that oil finish. It's actually a varnish oil
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so it's a mixture of linseed oil and varnish but it behaves just like a true oil finish
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because you apply it, you let it soak in for about half an hour or an hour
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and then you wipe everything off so it's just the stuff that soaks in
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that you want to be on top of. The same thing that you want to be on the wood
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and you repeat that process at least three times. I think for a table like this we're probably going to do four or five coats
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It takes a long time and the instructions say to let it dry for 24 hours between coats
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but it takes longer than that to dry between coats. So it's a process
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but the beauty is that it affords terrific protection and it's also repairable
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So if this table was in the kitchen and it was getting kind of scuffed and scratched
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we'd go over it with a rubbing pad vacuum it off clean and then right in the kitchen apply some more of this
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and it's like I said highly repairable which makes it way better than any kind of film forming finish
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So let's get to work. So our job right now is just to get the oil on the table
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So we don't have to be very neat about it. We just need to put it on and brush it around
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quite thin really. It's a lot thicker now than it's going to be
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But boy that oil sure brings out the wood grain. Looks great
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So we'll just go over the whole table make sure everything's wet
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and then we'll go away for about an hour and come back with some rags and wipe off all that we can
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So I'm really pleased and surprised at how this grain has come to life
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since the oil is on. It's wet and shiny and not very smooth looking right now
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but that's okay because as I said before we're going to be wiping all this stuff off
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after 30 to 60 minutes or so. One of the things to keep in mind here is
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the wood absorbs this material at different rates. It's all pretty saturated on the surface right now
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but there's a spot, thirstier than other spots. Where else can I find one
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I think that's the most prominent one at the moment. I want the surface to stay wet
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so in 10 or 15 minutes I'll come out here again with the brush and just push some of the liquid
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onto the places that are thirstier and that have kind of dried out a little bit
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because the job here now is to saturate the wood grain, the wood pores
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and then wipe it all off and then let it dry and repeat the process again
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to build up this oil layer. So I've applied three coats now
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and I've let it dry actually for four days between coats. The way I know that it's dry is not because the surface feels dry
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because it feels dry as soon as I finish wiping it like you see here, I'm just wiping off this fourth coat
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But the rag that I use is a great indication of when the oil actually dries
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because for a couple of days after I put it on it hasn't dried appreciably and unless it's dried on the surface
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you're not going to be able to build anything in the pores of the wood
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Not that you want to film, but you do want all the pores saturated
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That's what we're doing here. I'm not actually wiping with my full force here
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There's a tiny bit left on the surface. That's essentially it. I will go over this later when all the coats are on and it's dry dry
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I'm going to go over it again with a buffing pad just to give it a final little bit of smoothness
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and then it'll be good for a couple of years of hard use
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So thanks for joining me this week. Subscribe, hit the notifications bell, like if you like the video
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where I talk about all kinds of stuff like this and more. So thanks again. See you next week