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I'm Steve Maxwell and I want to show you the secret to making the most of wood
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which is finishing. And finishing that not only looks good, but it's also easy to prepare. I've
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got some samples here of water-based urethane finish that I want to show you. As you can see
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it comes in a whole bunch of different colors. You needn't use these non-traditional colors
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the regular brown or even unstained and clearly sealed is an option. But whatever you choose
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there are some techniques you have to put into practice if you want that wood to look great
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Let's get started right now with the first part of the process, which is sanding. To show you
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exactly how to apply this kind of finish, I'm going to use this piece of pine board. It's top
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grade wood and it's as smooth as you can expect wood to be coming from the lumberyard, but there's
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still a problem with it. You might be tempted to put a finish directly on this wood, but that would
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be a huge mistake. You'd never get good results unless you do some sanding first. Take a close
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look and I'll show you what I mean. On the surface, if you look closely, you'll see the undulation
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marks left behind by the thickness planer that smoothened this wood. It's those marks that you
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need to take off and the first tool you use for that is the belt sander
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Well, I've just gone over the wood with a 100 grit belt in the belt sander and I've
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removed all of those mill marks you saw a few seconds ago. The thing is though, that the belt
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sander is still a fairly coarse tool. Even if I had a very fine belt on that sander, it's still
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likely to leave gouges and scratches. If I didn't hold the sander exactly parallel to the grain
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there's going to be some cross-grain scratching there. It's very hard to see at this stage
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but it comes right out when you put the stain on it. So that's why I have step two
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which is using this half sheet vibrating sander. The key to using the half sheet vibrating sander
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is to use it with a light pressure. I've got 120 grit sandpaper on here and I was moving it back
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and forth with the grain. The results are considerably smoother than with the belt
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sander. To be honest, I could probably go right to stain right now, but just to make sure I've
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got a flawless surface, there is a third sanding step. It doesn't take very long. It's similar to
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this one, but it uses a quarter sheet finishing sander, a palm sander, which we'll also use later
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on for our between coat sanding. But for now, we're just going to use it to refine the wood
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that last little bit before we start putting some liquid on this piece of pine
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The quarter sheet finishing sander is a great tool. It's small and light. In this case
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I've used 180 grit sandpaper for that final sanding pass on the wood before we get to the
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staining and urethane. When I come to use this for sanding between coats, which I'll explain in a
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minute or two, I'll switch to 220 grit paper in that case. If you can, vacuum the surface clean
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Dust is your enemy at this stage. Now, if you're working on a job site, you could use a shop vac
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or even a hand broom used vigorously will probably be enough. But sanding wood is entirely different
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operation than finishing wood. Finishing has got to be done in a surgically clean situation
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and that's what we're creating now. At this stage, you have a choice to make. Well
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you've probably made the choice before, but you're going to go in one of two directions right now. You can either stain the wood. They've got a range of colors here. There's a
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traditional brownish color and a red and a blue, or you can go directly to sealing the finish
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You'll need to seal on top of the stain too. In this case, we're using a water-based urethane
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but if you're going to go with staining, then there's a step you need to do before you add
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the color, and that's the application of a pre-stain conditioner. What that does is it
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evens out the absorbency of the wood so you get much more smooth color
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Water-based products have very low odor, and they dry very quickly. You might be wondering, though
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if it's water-based, isn't the finish water-soluble? These products are water-soluble and water clean up when they're wet, but as they dry, they undergo a chemical change
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that makes them insoluble in water. They're actually quite a tough and durable finish
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Another advantage is that they don't yellow with age. If you want to preserve a
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very white finish on the wood, then a water-based urethane on its own is the way to go
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Now, this is the pre-stain conditioner, and I've applied an even coat
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and we're going to let that dry before we come back and put some stain on
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I'm going to let this dry for 15 to 30 minutes before I put the stain on
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but before I do, I'm just going to wipe off all the excess. We don't want any of the pre-stain
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conditioner sealing the surface or forming a film on it. We just want to slake the thirst of that
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bare wood. Pre-stain conditioner has done its job. It's soaked in. We've wiped it off. It's
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dried a little bit. If you detect any roughness at all, go over it with a piece of 240-grit sandpaper
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in your hand, and that'll remove any of the grain that was raised as it soaked up the
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water-based conditioner. Before you get started with the stain, give it a good stir. There's
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pigments that you need to churn up from the bottom. When the color of the stain becomes
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consistent, then you know you've got it completely mixed. Now comes the fun part, putting on some
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stain. You want to put it on fairly thick. You're going to wipe it off again, just like we did with
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the conditioner. When it goes on, it looks just like paint, but that's not what stain's all about
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When we wipe it, we're going to reveal some of the wood grain underneath, and that's what makes
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this combination look so good. The Minwax water-based stains that I prefer come in lots of
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non-traditional colors like you see here, as well as a whole bunch of shades of brown, if you want
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to stick with something more conventional. This, of course, is water-based stain that we've just put
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on, and it dries fairly quickly, so you don't want to let the stain sit on the wood for too long
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before you wipe it off, revealing that all-important wood grain underneath. And you do want to remove everything from the surface. It's only the liquid that's soaked in
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below the surface that you want to remain. We've got the stain on the wood, and it's got to be
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allowed to dry completely before the next step. Now, one note of caution. This doesn't really look
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all that impressive yet, even though it's a really good staining job. The reason is because it doesn't
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have the depth of color that the urethane brings out. What you need to do next is to coat with one
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coat of urethane and let it dry. Then give it another coat of urethane, that's the second one
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and when it's completely dry, lightly sand the surface with 220 grit sandpaper, either in the
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quarter sheet palm sander I showed you before, or by hand in any intricate areas. Give it a third coat
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but don't sand after that last coat. What you're probably going to find at that stage is that the
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urethane looks something like this sample. This is pretty typical, especially when you're using
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water-based urethanes. As you can see, there are some bumps, little specks of dust have fallen on
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the surface and hardened there. Because water-based urethane dries so quickly, there's likely to be
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brush marks. If there were any bubbles in the liquid as you put it on, they might harden in
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place too. It looks pretty ugly. What you need to do to fix this is something that I've never seen
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anyone else do before with water-based urethanes, but it works really well. That's using a random
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orbit sander with a 3M rubbing pad to refine that surface and bring it up to a beautiful
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shiny, silky gloss like you see here on this sample