Dricore Concrete Crack Repair v1

Dricor Pro Concrete Repair, the world's strongest masonry crack repair system

In this video, you're going to learn how to repair a cracked masonry foundation wall using

two products designed to work together. The first is the Dricor Pro Concrete Repair Crack Injection

Kit. This is what the box looks like, and this is what's inside. The second product is the Carbon

Fiber Reinforcement Kit. This is what it looks like on the shelf, and this is what you get inside

the box. Using these products is simple, it's easy to learn, and the results are actually stronger

than the surrounding concrete. Step one, injection port installation and superficial crack sealing

Begin by installing plastic injection ports all along the crack, about every 18 inches or so

These are anchored with epoxy paste. Put some paste down first, and then nestle the injection

port into it. Later on, we'll be taking these ports off, but for now, they're really important

Here I am applying the epoxy paste to a block mock-up, so a simulated crack, and the port

just simply goes on there like that. The epoxy is viscous enough that it will hold the port steady

but if there's any question that the epoxy might be plugging up the port where it meets the masonry

you'll want to insert a bamboo skewer in there to keep the hole open while the epoxy cures

The next step involves sealing over the surface of the crack with the same epoxy anchoring paste

you just used. The idea here is to seal the crack superficially. We'll be injecting

expanding foam in the next step, and in order to contain that, we have to have the crack

completely sealed. Back to the concrete block mock-up again, and I'm applying some of the

epoxy anchoring paste to the surface. Remember, just superficially. I don't want to inject it

into the crack in any way, and when I have enough on the surface, then I'm tooling that over

to make a smooth and sealed surface. It doesn't really matter what you use. I'm using a wooden

wedge here, but just something that's disposable to smooth and tool that over and seal the crack

That's what we want to do at this stage before letting everything cure fully. This takes a

minimum of two to three hours, but leave it as long as necessary to get fully hard

Step two, fill the crack full by injection. Beginning with the lowest port and moving

upwards, inject the polyurethane until you can see it starting to come out the next port higher

When that happens, cap off the port that you've been injecting in, and then move the injection

gun to the next port higher, and repeat the process until you're all the way at the top of

the wall. The Dricor kit you're using here contains expanding polyurethane foam as the

sealing agent, and when that's fully hard, you can knock off the injection ports and get ready for the

next step. Step three, surface grinding. At this stage, this is kind of what your repair area will

look like. The injection ports have been knocked off, but the surface sealing epoxy is still there

and we need to grind that off so that the wall surface is smooth and bare

and the only place where you see any kind of filler is the actual crack itself. Here I am using a

diamond wheel in an angle grinder. I'm working on that concrete block mock-up that you saw before

so if I was actually grinding a wall, that surface would be vertical instead of horizontal

but the idea is the same. You just want to work back and forth, removing all the epoxy

getting down to bare masonry to create that flat surface that the epoxy and the carbon fiber

fabric will adhere to very well. Step four, carbon fiber fabric reinforcement. At this stage

it's time for you to use the second kit that I mentioned at the beginning of the video

That's the carbon fiber reinforcement kit. All the epoxy sealing layer has been removed

and either side of the crack is scuffed and cleaned by the action of that cup wheel in the

angle grinder. Using the epoxy tube that came in the carbon fiber kit, squirt some epoxy around

the whole area, kind of in a back and forth way, and then use a small roller to wet the surface

and to roll it out evenly in preparation for applying the carbon fiber fabric that comes next

Push the fabric into the epoxy on the wall surface, making the length of carbon fiber

fabric as long as possible, while the crack is still no closer than two or three inches

from the edge of that particular piece of fabric. Overlap the pieces as needed when you move from

one to the other until the whole area is covered in the fabric. At this stage, you're almost done

You just need to apply more epoxy to the surface of the carbon fiber and roll it in, so you not

only have the carbon fiber bonded to the foundation wall, but it's also encased in epoxy for maximum

strength. When everything's fully cured, your repair will be stronger than the surrounding masonry

you