146VIDEO Picnic Table Plans Tour
9K views
Jan 25, 2024
146VIDEO Picnic Table Plans Tour
View Video Transcript
0:00
In this video I want to give you some tips on building a picnic table that's
0:06
part of the course. Start by looking near the bottom. This is the end view and it
0:13
shows what I call the end frames. So made up of the legs, top cross piece, bottom
0:21
cross piece, and another leg. The other parts you see here, the seat parts, top
0:27
parts, the diagonal brace, they don't enter into the side frames. The first
0:33
thing you're going to want to do is to build your side frames. Build one and then
0:37
build a second one on top of the first one so that they're both exactly the
0:42
same. And that's your starting point. The best way to put these frames together is
0:50
to cut the parts as you see here and as described in the instructions, but then
0:56
put them together initially with some glue, outdoor rated glue, weatherproof glue, and a couple of deck screws per joint. Now those deck screws will not be
1:10
sufficient to hold that frame together when the picnic table's in use, but they
1:16
are convenient. You can place the parts exactly where you want them to. They're
1:22
not going to wiggle out of the way or anything while you're driving these screws. Once the screw is driven, then the parts are locked in place and
1:30
everything's good to go. There's glue there, so as soon as you have a side
1:36
frame done and fastened together with screws, go right ahead and drill holes
1:41
here and here and here for carriage bolts and do them up. Do them up tight
1:49
with a nut and washer while the glue is still wet so that those parts are
1:54
brought together firmly. And while the glue dries, you're going to get a better
2:00
glue joint that way. Next step would be to cut your top boards. Here they are
2:11
here, and you can join them together in one unit by adding the middle support
2:19
fastened, of course, in the middle of the boards. And you can use deck screws there
2:26
and some glue. That would be a good idea. Drive the deck screws from the bottom
2:31
though. It's always a good idea to hide your fasteners whenever you can. Now at
2:37
this stage, you've got the top boards joined together, kind of, in one unit
2:43
You want to get a helper or two to hold up the end frames where they need to go
2:50
on the underside of the top. And the idea there is that we're going to hold this
3:00
end frame up, this end frame up, you're going to put the tabletop on it, and you're
3:06
going to fasten the tabletop to the end frames with two screws per joint, all the
3:14
way along, two deck screws per joint, three and a half, four inches long. That's
3:20
going to do a good job. You're going to want to mark, mark a pencil line so that
3:24
your screws aren't all over the place. Screws or nails, when they're driven in a
3:28
nice straight line with even spacing, they look much, much better than when
3:32
they're just driven by eye. The thing is though, you're not really going to know
3:39
if the leg frames are square to the underside of the top. They need to be 90
3:44
degrees to the underside of the top, and you really can't tell for sure how close
3:49
you are, and you could be very far off. So what you do next is you flip the whole
3:54
arrangement over. So you're flipping the tabletop upside down, and of course
3:58
don't forget at this stage, the leg frames are fastened too. So flip it upside
4:04
down and do whatever you need to do to level the top. So use a level to measure
4:09
its levelness lengthwise as it sits on the ground, and crossways as it sits on
4:17
the ground, and use shims or chunks of old scrap lumber or little pieces of cardboard
4:24
or whatever is necessary to make that top level in its two directions
4:30
Once you've done that, you can use your level to make sure that the leg frames are
4:36
square to the top. Because if the top is level, sort of truly horizontal
4:43
and you make the leg frames plum or truly vertical, then they will
4:49
by definition, be 90 degrees to each other. I don't think that's what you're going
4:54
to find when you do this measurement. I think the leg frames will always be a
4:58
little bit out, and your level will tell you that. But the way you stabilize the
5:04
leg frames is by adding these diagonal braces. See, one's here, another one here
5:12
And you're going to want to custom cut those, custom cut the length so that when
5:16
the diagonal brace is jammed up against this middle support, and the bottom end
5:24
is touching the bottom cross piece. You can see that right here, too
5:32
That's the bottom cross piece, and that ghosted area there, that's the end
5:38
of the diagonal brace. When the diagonal brace is the correct length
5:43
and it's fastened here at the top, and it's fastened at the bottom
5:48
then the leg frame will be 90 degrees to the top, and it will stay that way
5:54
It's a design that ensures that it stays square and solid. And that's how you make
6:01
things square as you're putting them together. Far better to use your level to
6:06
determine squareness than a carpenter's square, which is hard to read when
6:10
projects get this big. Last step, flip the table over, right side up
6:18
add your seat boards, and away you go. Time to open the picnic lunch
#Construction & Power Tools
#Home Improvement
#Table Tennis Equipment