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You're going to learn how to repair a cracked masonry foundation wall using two products
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designed to work together. The first is the Dricor Pro Concrete Repair Crack Injection
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Kit. This is what the box looks like, and this is what's inside. The second product
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is the Carbon Fiber Reinforcement Kit. This is what it looks like on the shelf, and this
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is what you get inside the box. Using these products is simple, it's easy to learn, and
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the results are actually stronger than the surrounding concrete. Step one, injection
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port installation and superficial crack sealing. Begin by installing plastic injection ports
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all along the crack, about every 18 inches or so. These are anchored with epoxy paste
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Put some paste down first, and then nestle the injection port into it. Later on we'll
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be taking these ports off, but for now they're really important. Here I am applying the epoxy
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paste to a block mock-up, so a simulated crack, and the port just simply goes on there like
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that. The epoxy is viscous enough that it will hold the port steady, but if there's
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any question that the epoxy might be plugging up the port where it meets the masonry, you'll
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want to insert a bamboo skewer in there to keep the hole open while the epoxy cures
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The next step involves sealing over the surface of the crack with the same epoxy anchoring
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paste you just used. The idea here is to seal the crack superficially. We'll be injecting
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expanding foam in the next step, and in order to contain that, we have to have the crack
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completely sealed. Back to the concrete block mock-up again, and I'm applying some of the
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epoxy anchoring paste to the surface. Remember, just superficially. I don't want to inject
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it into the crack in any way. When I have enough on the surface, then I'm tooling that
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over to make a smooth and sealed surface. It doesn't really matter what you use. I'm
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using a wooden wedge here, but just something that's disposable to smooth and tool that
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over and seal the crack. That's what we want to do at this stage before letting everything
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cure fully. This takes a minimum of two to three hours, but leave it as long as necessary
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to get fully hard. Step two, fill the crack full by injection. Beginning with the lowest port and moving
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upwards, inject the polyurethane until you can see it starting to come out the next port
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higher. When that happens, cap off the port that you've been injecting in, and then move
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the injection gun to the next port higher and repeat the process until you're all the
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way at the top of the wall. The Dricor kit you're using here contains expanding polyurethane
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foam as the sealing agent, and when that's fully hard, you can knock off the injection
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ports and get ready for the next step. Step three, surface grinding. At this stage, this is kind of what your repair area will
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look like. The injection ports have been knocked off, but the surface sealing epoxy is still
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there, and we need to grind that off so that the wall surface is smooth and bare, and the
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only place where you see any kind of filler is the actual crack itself. Here I am using
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a diamond wheel in an angle grinder. I'm working on that concrete block mock-up that you saw
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before, so if I was actually grinding a wall, that surface would be vertical instead of
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horizontal, but the idea is the same. You just want to work back and forth, removing
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all the epoxy, getting down to bare masonry to create that flat surface that the epoxy
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and the carbon fibre fabric will adhere to very well. Step four, carbon fibre fabric reinforcement. At this stage, it's time for you to use the
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second kit that I mentioned at the beginning of the video. It's the carbon fibre reinforcement
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kit. All the epoxy sealing layer has been removed, and either side of the crack is scuffed
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and cleaned by the action of that cup wheel in the angle grinder. Using the epoxy tube
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that came in the carbon fibre kit, squirt some epoxy around the whole area, kind of
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in a back and forth way, and then use a small roller to wet the surface and to roll it out
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evenly in preparation for applying the carbon fibre fabric that comes next. Push the fabric
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into the epoxy on the wall surface, making the length of carbon fibre fabric as long
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as possible, while the crack is still no closer than two or three inches from the edge of
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that particular piece of fabric. Overlap the pieces as needed when you move from one to
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the other until the whole area is covered in the fabric. At this stage, you're almost done. You just need to apply more epoxy to the surface of
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the carbon fibre and roll it in. So, you not only have the carbon fibre bonded to the foundation
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wall, but it's also encased in epoxy for maximum strength. When everything's fully cured, your
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repair will be stronger than the surrounding masonry. Visit www.Flydreamers.com for more