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I've been working on a box new staircase railing and I'm coming to the end of the
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project now. Before I fasten everything in place I thought you might appreciate
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seeing how it goes together. It might help you with a project in mind that you
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have and it just shows the design that I came up with and some of the advantages
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especially in terms of how solid it is. That's one of the reasons I like box
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new staircase railings is because they are so solid. It gets the name from this
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new post here. It's a box with some panels here and this side has been
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secured. It's glued and this is permanently installed and it's quite strong. The only movement in it is the actual flexing of this box. There's
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no wiggling on the bottom at all. Before I assemble the other side with glue
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let me show you how it goes together and you can see what you think
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I'm going to start by lifting off this box newel here and the first thing I
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want to show you is how this newel fastens to the floor. This is a sandwich
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of plywood that I've made. It's about three inches high I think and it's
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glued and secured to the floor with these structural screws so it's not
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going anywhere. There's a floor joist that runs here so these screws sink into
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that. These just sink into the plywood subfloor but the whole thing is fastened
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with glue and what that allows me to do is drive some screws through the side of
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the box newel into this base piece and that really adds a lot of strength
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You can see some of the screw holes that I have here. I'll be driving
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screws in there as a final step. I'm also going to put a lot of glue around here
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so it kind of seeps down into the gap between the box newel and this
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anchor block. What's going on here is the railing. Let's see if I can get it apart
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here for you. So the railing, I should say everything has been made from
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rough lumber. Inch thick, inch and a half, two inch. This railing I milled. You can
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see here it's laminated. The lamination mark is in the finger groove
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here and this profile was created with three different router bits. There's the
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router bit that forms the top part. There's another router bit that I use to
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form where your fingers grab and then a chamfer bit along the bottom. This groove
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underneath nestles into where the where these spindles go and then later when
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everything's together I will be putting thin pieces of wood between the spindles
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But if you go down here you can see how how these spindles fit in with things
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The base of the railing is made with this 1 3 quarter inch thick base
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piece. This railing is made of cherry. You can do this sort of work with any kind
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of hardwood and you can see here there's a half inch hole to accept a dowel and
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then the spindle goes on top. Well at the bottom of this hole I don't suppose you
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can see it too well but at the bottom of this hole there's a wood screw. So this
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base piece that you see here is fastened to the subfloor with glue and then one
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screw in each of the dowel holes that run along the length. Now over here
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you've got separate pieces of trim. One on this side and one on the other side
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and that creates the channel within which the spindles fit. So it contains
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them from side to side and when I add these blocks it creates a kind of a
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square mortise within which the spindle fits and it's quite solid. When I glue
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this when I put it all together finally I'm going to use weld bond glue in here
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because I have a finish on this surface and weld bond is one of the only glues
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that can stick to a finish. I'm just going to use regular high strength
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cabinetmakers glue for all the other joints but that's the way this bottom
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part goes together with the base, the side moldings, the dowels for the spindles and
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then these blocks that flank the spindles and form a kind of a base. So here we
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have the railing. I've taken it off you can see underneath the half inch dowel
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holes. Cut this groove with a dado blade on the table saw and as I said there's
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going to be spacers of wood just a little bit higher than flush with the
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bottom of the railing that further secures the top of the spindles. You'll
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notice here the spindles are numbered with a certain arrow direction and
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that's because each spindle is the holes for it are specifically drilled
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for that spot. I've been as accurate as I could and you know in practice you can
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actually interchange some of these but just to be sure that the holes line up
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properly and that the blocks at the bottom are tight to the spindles I just
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number everything and then I can be sure it's going to go together properly. So
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the assembly procedure will be to glue the bottoms of the spindles with their
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blocks to slather some glue on top here some glue into the holes and then to put
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the railing back on and the railing is held to the newel post with some more of
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these structural screws. These are great they have a big beefy thread on them a
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nice big head they hold like crazy so the holes here in the railing correspond
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with holes that I've drilled here in the newel post. I used some dowel centers to
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transfer the holes properly and then the structural screws just just go inside
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and I have a right angle drill which lets me tighten that up and pulls it all
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together and I just leave it alone for a day and it's as solid as a rock so
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that's the design overview I hope you find it useful maybe you can make a
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staircase railing like this yourself. So just before I finish up here I've got the final assembly done everything's
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solid I wanted to show you about the the newel caps that I've made I built them
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as a separate assembly and this piece of plywood here fits inside the newel post
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there's a little bit of slack there moving around a bit my plan is to put
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some silicone caulking around here just to act as an adhesive not a permanent
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adhesive but one that's just going to to keep this solid and then what I'm
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gonna finish up with is installing some trim around here I've done this sort of
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work before and I've always fastened the trim to the newel cap but I think this time I'm gonna try fastening it to the actual newel so this is going to be
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solid although I can lift this off if I ever need to I've allowed a little bit
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of space here it's a dry time of the year where I am now I've allowed a little bit of space around the pyramid cap so that it can expand in the
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summertime if need be I don't think there's any way around that but I just
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would like to be able to remove this in case anything happens this I can take
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off it's not glued and then the pyramid cap is also not glued it's held with
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screws driven through oversized holes so that it can expand and contract a
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little bit one last thing I had a challenging situation here this sloped
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roof this is an attic this is a finished attic situation and the sloped roof was
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getting in the way I was really trying to figure out how I could do this I didn't want to lower the railing so much and the newel post that it wouldn't hit
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the roof so what did I end up doing was just making a regular newel cap and
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cutting it off to fit just slicing it on the table saw sanding and smooth
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getting the angle right angling the top corner of the newel post and it just
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kind of fits in here and it looks like it's sprouting out of the attic roof
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