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VIDEO FRAMING YOUR SMOKEHOUSE ROOF
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Jan 24, 2024
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View Video Transcript
0:00
The purpose of this video is to give you a close-up overview of the roof structure
0:07
and I'm going to talk about how it goes together and different tips for construction
0:13
This is essentially the way roofs were always framed in yesteryear before the advent of trusses
0:22
A truss is a kind of a pre-made triangle of framing material, and you put the triangles down
0:28
down and then you cover the top of the triangles with more wood
0:32
With a rafter roof like this, each rafter, here's one here, here's one here and here
0:39
they're pre-cut ahead of time. So they're cut with an angle at the top, and they're cut with this
0:45
angled notch at the bottom that goes over the top of the wall. That's called the bird's mouth
0:51
In this case, to keep things simple, I've just left the ends of the rafters square
0:56
you could make a vertical cut here too and finish it in a fancier way so the vertical cut would match the vertical cut of at the top end of the rafter but this is essentially how it goes together rafters here this would be the ridge board and I'm calling these the ceiling joists because they do form a kind of a ceiling although you you don't want to cover them and create an actual ceiling in your smokehouse but there's
1:26
They're there for two reasons. First of all, they're there to bind the sides of the smokehouse together
1:32
So you can imagine there's downward pressure on any roof, and because the rafters are angled
1:38
that would translate into outward pressure against the walls. And the presence of the ceiling joists
1:45
anchored as they are to the rafters, creates a cross piece, a bunch of cross pieces that hold the thing together
1:53
Now you really don need all these cross pieces and a building this tiny One in the center would do fine but I recommending that you install them for each pair of rafters so that you have more surface area to hang hooks and nets and
2:10
all kinds of things from that you'd want to use in the smokehouse. So just fastened to the bottom
2:14
of the ceiling joists and you'll have a lot of utility that way. Now one other thing, just up front here
2:24
this hole would be present in all the rafters. And what I recommend as a premium construction option
2:32
is to, instead of driving nails in at an angle, toe nailing the rafters into the top of the wall
2:40
which is kind of standard practice and not very strong, I recommend an 8-inch spike driven down through the top of the rafter here
2:48
and then into the wall. As you'll see, there's a wall directly underneath here
2:53
you pre-drill that hole, the hole for that spike, using a quarter-inch drill bit
2:59
These long spikes, these 8, 10, 12-inch spikes, they're about 3⁄ of an inch in diameter
3:05
So a quarter-inch diameter hole is perfect. It's just a little bit smaller. And the distance you're going to have to drill is more than a regular drill bit, too
3:14
which is, you know, maybe four inches long or so. So you want to get yourself what they call an installers drill bit, a quarter-inch
3:23
These installer bits are 16 inches long, something like that. They're made for people who install cables in buildings
3:32
And it's perfect for making pilot holes for spikes in applications like this
3:38
and all kinds of buildings too. Here you've got a closer up view of the rafter
3:43
and all the information you need in order to cut the rafters
3:49
So up at the top, it's a 30-degree angle. And these angles could vary quite a bit but 30 degrees is a reasonable slope It looks nice but it not so steep that it hard to frame and to shingle So this is the end view of the ridgeboard and this is the angle
4:07
The really critical length here is from here, so the tip of the peak of the rafter
4:16
all the way down to this spot here. That's the back edge of the bird's mouth pocket
4:23
And that's the most critical dimension because, the wall of the smokehouse will be here, ideally. It should be right up against the back of
4:33
this pocket and the top should be up here, tight to the ridgeboard with no gap here, and there
4:45
should be the same thing going on on the other side of the ridgeboard. So in order for all this
4:51
to work out, you need to build the smokehouse the width that I've shown
4:56
in the plans and then following these dimensions. And then as a final check, just cut two rafters at once
5:02
one pair, and then set them on the building and just see how they fit. Because there's, there's
5:08
complications here that make it easy for little gaps and ill-fitting zones to develop. So
5:15
you'll want to check that before you cut all the rafters. Now, this figure here, the eight-inch
5:21
figure, not too critical. That's just an overhang that I thought looked
5:26
good in this application. You can make it longer, probably not a whole lot shorter because you want
5:32
lots of shedding value from the roof to protect the walls as far down as possible. But that's
5:39
essentially how you cut a rafter for the smokehouse using two by four material. At this stage
5:46
in construction, it's time to put the roof boards on. And as I've explained before, my recommendation
5:52
is some one and a half inch thick construction grade lumber So 2x8s 2x10s probably If you can find 12s at a good price then you can use those two The thicker material hides roofing nails from showing through
6:09
on the inside, which would be ugly, and it's plenty strong. It's not going to be any more money
6:16
than thinner sheathing-grade pine lumber, typically, at least where I live, so you're not
6:25
paying a premium for it. And most importantly, you're not using sheet materials, which I don't think
6:30
have any place in a smokehouse because of the urea formaldehyde glue, as well as the thin
6:35
thickness that allows all kinds of fasteners to show through. So one other bonus of the thick
6:42
sheathing is that you can extend it beyond the last rafter, which the last pair is here and here
6:50
And those are at the, in this case, the front edge of the building, the front end. You can extend this
6:55
thicker than usual sheathing to create an overhang at the front and the back
7:01
and it's self-supporting it's thick enough that it can do that just fine to make
7:06
things look really nice I recommend that you add a gable rafter just to cap the ends of
7:13
those roofboards it's there's no bird's mouth pocket because it just fastens to the
7:20
ends of those thick roofboards so nice and clean looking It also extends the roof a little bit past the end of the roof boards
7:30
So when you put on your aluminum drip edge here and shingles or whatever you're going to put on the roof
7:37
you're well past the ends of the roofboards, which are vulnerable for rot because end grain always soaks up moisture
7:44
And if you just ended with the roof boards, even if you had your drip edge over it and everything
7:50
that would still get wet. The ends of the roofboards would get wet, and it would promote rot and there's no excuse for that
7:57
So another reason to use the gable rafters here
#Home Improvement
#Roofing