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In this video I want to talk to you about what I call distressable finishes
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And by that I mean a finish that has been first prepared with either chalked
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paint or milk paint. I'm going to be telling you more about those two things in a moment
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So a finish that's been prepared with this kind of paint but intentionally worn
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So it looks old and kind of nice really. And another feature of the distressable
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finishes that as the bumps and dings and wear and tear of everyday life start to appear on
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your wood surface it's just going to look better because the irregularities are supposed to be
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there. So before I get into this demonstration of applying this kind of finish to this piece of wood
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I just like you to take a look at some of the things I have made and finished in this way
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There's a small blue cabinet. It's got the blue milk paint in that case. It's been distressed
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There's also a white pine trunk in our living room. Also distressed. There's a bookshelf as
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well that I've built and actually applied a milk paint finish to after the fact when I wanted to
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change the look of the bookshelf. I've also done chairs. Chairs work really well. In fact if you
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find some chairs, some wooden chairs for sale in a flea market or something like that, they very
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often have some kind of a lacquer finish on them or something like that. They often don't look all
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that good. A very good way to make that look better without all the hassles of stripping a
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chair which is enormous is just to apply milk paint or chalked paint to that chair and then
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distress it down. You can see that in these blue chairs here that I've finished too
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But for now we're going to get busy. Now this piece of wood here, it's just some construction
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grade spruce. In fact nothing fancy. It's got a coat of stain on it now. Now you don't need
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to stain first before you apply chalked paint or milk paint any kind of distressable finish like
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that. But I like to do it because especially with lighter colored paints and I'm going to be
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applying some white chalked paint here. With the lighter colors when you apply the distressing
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so essentially a controlled wearing through the finish, you get the darker wood coming out and it
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really looks nice. Now especially in this case with wood that's this light, if I put milk paint
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on here or chalked paint and I wore through, you'd hardly really notice because this is very light to
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begin with. That's why we do the stain ahead of time. Not essential but it makes it look better
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It gives it a more authentically old kind of look. So milk paint. This is an excellent brand. I've
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used this for years. I first discovered this when was it 1987 I think in a cabinet shop where I
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worked. We used to make solid wood kitchen cabinets and sometimes we'd finish them with this stuff
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which is a powder. This is the stuff right here. You mix it with water. You want to power mix it
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because it doesn't really mix all that easily and you want a homogenous mix. So you'd want to use
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something like this following the directions for dilution of course. This is my mixing paddle in
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my electric drill and I use it for all kinds of things. It's an old spade bit. It used to be for
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drilling wood. I ground off the central point in the middle mostly so I can get down into the bottom
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of cans. Now the chalked paint that I'm going to be applying now comes pre-mixed and ready to use
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You still do need to mix some though because stuff settles out and so I'll just mix this now. It's
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going to take a lot less mixing than if I was using the milk paint because it's already mixed
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It just needs to be stirred. Now if you're careful you can kind of get the drill going faster and see it sets up a kind of a
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current of turbulence in the can. You see how it's automatically pulling stuff up from the bottom
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and kind of stirring it in. You want to be careful though. If I were to pull this out right now I'd
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get covered in paint and so would the camera so that would be no good. But we're almost there now
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Almost perfectly homogenous. There we go. Nice and even in color. So chalked paint and milk paint are
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paint and by that I mean they're opaque when they go on. They won't remain opaque if you choose to
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distress the finish. Now you don't have to distress the finish when you're using these things. It just
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happens to be my favorite way of using this stuff. It's very nice to use. I mean I don't recommend
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you drink the stuff or anything but it seems very very non-toxic. There's no odor. It's very easy to
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get along with. Doesn't dry particularly fast which is a good thing. Now you might be wondering why
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couldn't I do this with regular paint? I've got some white house paint in the basement. Can't I
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just put it on a stained surface and let it dry and then and then work my way through? It's a
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little bristle from the brush there. The answer is no you can't and that's because modern paints of
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the sort that you might put on your house are designed to resist wearing. So they don't distress
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very well at all. They're made to resist wear which is what you want on a on a wall or a ceiling
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or something in your house but it's not what we want when we intend to sand through and make it
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look pretty in a worn-out antique kind of way. Get another bristle here. It's not unusual. I like to
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use these inexpensive disposable brushes. They're about a dollar each or less than a dollar. I wash
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them out if I'm using anything that's washable but if I'm using a solvent-based product I'll
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just discard the brush. I'd rather throw out the brush than dirty you know half a quart of
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of mineral spirits or something and have to have to dispose of that. So I've done everything I can
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on this piece now. You'll notice a couple of things. Brush marks are pretty obvious. That
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will get less so as this dries but there still will be some dark streaks from kind of the low
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of the application after just one coat. So if I was going to coat this and I intended just to keep
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it undistressed with a kind of you know just an opaque paint then I would give it another coat
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But for now I probably don't need to give it another coat. I might coat it again depending
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on how it looks when it dries before I go to distress it. I'm gonna wait and let this dry
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and in this video we're gonna come back when it's dry and then I'm going to show you the
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distressing process. So stay tuned for that. We're just going to put it aside. I'm gonna let it dry
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for at least half a day maybe a day and then I'll show you how to use abrasion to bring out
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that nice distressed antique look that just keeps getting better over time. So here we are back
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again. The white chalked paint is now completely dry and I'm ready to do a little bit of distressing
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If you remember there was some dark stain underneath this to help the distressing show
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through and as I explained earlier in the video you can see some brush marks here. This is just
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where the chalked paint is thinner in some places than another where the bristles used to be. Now
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that may or may not be a problem if you're distressing. Certainly it is a problem if
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you're not distressing and there's some people who use chalk paint and milk paint and don't
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distress it at all because it's it's flat and when you get it in colors is kind of an antiquey pastel
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color kind of thing which which looks nice. So you don't necessarily need to distress it but we're
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gonna distress it now. Depending on how much distressing I'm gonna do those lines may or may
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not be a problem. I'm just gonna go ahead now since this is just a sample just to show you how things
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look. So distressing is essentially controlled wear. It's a bit of an artistic process because
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you have to decide where the wear is gonna show through and where it's not and how much and so
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it's a matter of opinion and judgment but essentially it comes down to two things sanding
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by hand and sanding with a machine. A quarter sheet finishing sander is what you want to use
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Don't use anything more aggressive so that would be a random orbit sander even a small five-inch one
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too aggressive. So this is just about right and you don't want to use coarse sandpaper. It's gonna
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be fairly fine. I've got a piece of 220 here. There's 220 on the sander. I've got a piece of
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180 here too. We can try that by hand. It's just a matter of judgment and and really getting going
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So before I use the machine I just want to show you something quickly here. This is what I was
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telling you about before. Look at that. Look at all that. That is what you want in a distressable paint and
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that will never happen with modern paints because they're designed to resist this. They're designed
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to be tough so you can't sand them like this. Now I'm already starting to go through there. You see
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some of the sort of that distressing kind of appearance. Once again as I said it's a judgment
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call. Depending on what you're distressing you have to use your imagination to think where where
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where could have happened more thoroughly than other places and you kind of simulate that but
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let's just see what the sander will do as we continue. Well that didn't take long did it? That's probably about as far as I would take this. If you remember
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earlier in the video there was a shot of a white pine wood trunk. It was originally is a purchased
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item. I didn't make it but it was finished dark chalk painted it white distressed it. It looks
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something like this. Doesn't take very much and as you can see in this case there really would have
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been no need for a second coat because those those brush marks well they're mostly gone now and the
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ones that are there just kind of fit in to this sort of a worn surface and you can see you can
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how the stained color came through. If I had done this on the other side wouldn't look nearly as
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nice because we wouldn't have the darkness showing through. So there you go the distressable finish
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using the chalked paint like this or milk paint